Lost In Translation October 30, 2011

Dani completing his project
From the first moment that I stumbled under the arch and pretty much fell over at the scale I’ve wanted to climb a multi-pitch. The challenge is pretty obvious, to climb all the way up, the short hard routes on the side being hard, but relatively, short! Though not exactly short at all, it’s just this place is ridiculous! The Petzl heroes have put in an insane effort to put up a bunch of multi-pitch routes through the most ridiculous terrain, the two that stand out being Dani’s project, and Arnaud and Stephanie’s. Dani’s took 11 days to bolt, Arnaud about seven. That’s a lot of effort, but worth it because these are world classics.
Obviously Dani’s was out, it not even completed yet, but even if it had been, with pitches at around 8a+/8b/7c+/7b/8b+/8c/8a/8a+ it was probably slightly out of my league for a last day effort. Added to that I was hanging out in an effort to expel all nasty stuff from my body via frequent high velocity sprints to the bathroom. Multi pitching with an added layer of fear! Arnaud’s route goes at 7b+/7c+/8a+/8a, not exactly a path, but a hell of a lot easier than the terrain looks to yield. I climbed it with Cody Roth, amazing. One of the best routes I’ve ever done. To make it even better we had a view all the way up of Dani redpointing each of the pitches on his route, one after the other over about five hours. A fantastic last day, and I didn’t even need a bung!

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